Floor Set, a secret technique to increase the number of move drawers and speed up your route setting.

Drawing out moves is not about the number of stories you have, but about your imagination to figure out the best moves from a limited number of options. This imagination can be developed through training. In this YouTube video, I introduced my signature explosive route setting technique, the floor set. It is an effective setting … Continue reading “Floor Set, a secret technique to increase the number of move drawers and speed up your route setting.”

The Five Elements of Serendipity

(From the June 2016 Mitsuo’s Report.) In route setting, discovering chance encounters and creating new movements is the most exciting part. The accidental elements are important hints to establish a unique move, but they are created by daily effort, challenge, and experience. The discovery of an idea is accidental, but it is also inevitable. Serendipity … Continue reading “The Five Elements of Serendipity”

Press your feet hard! 5Q/V2 From Live Set – Problem Description

Climbers discover something and grow by climbing problems. And the power of discovery is a stronger motivator than completing a climb. Creating that kind of opportunity is a unique and wonderful part of route setting that is not found in other jobs. I hope this will give you a hint as to what factors give … Continue reading “Press your feet hard! 5Q/V2 From Live Set – Problem Description”

Doesn’t make you weak! “Wrap” to help create good climbing form.

A route setting is something that you can’t learn if you only learn the techniques but don’t understand the reasons behind them. However, it is also true that by introducing specific techniques, it is easier to understand the reasons behind them. So, in this article, I’ve tried to introduce a technique that I often use … Continue reading “Doesn’t make you weak! “Wrap” to help create good climbing form.”

How to create a “high quality” easy problems

I uploaded a YouTube video on how to create “high quality” easy problems, guiding movement with footwork, how to distinguish between good and bad problems, tips on route setting and how to practice. I mentioned easy problems in my last live streaming route setting, which was well received, so I thought about easy problems again … Continue reading “How to create a “high quality” easy problems”

Metolius Blue Ribbon for the best basic practice

Shojin Holds’ YouTube channel has a video explaining the Metolius Blue Ribbon hold. If you use the automatic translation option, English subtitles will be displayed. This is the first half. It explains what is so great about Blue Ribbon. It includes a video of Mitsuo actually setting the route. The video below is the second … Continue reading “Metolius Blue Ribbon for the best basic practice”

The most important fundamentals to learn from choosing holds

“守りつくして 破るとも 離るるとても 本を忘るな” “Follow the basics thoroughly, and don’t forget the original, even if you break or go away from your basics.” These are the words of Sen no Rikyu, who changed the culture of Japan. Those who train according to the basics and master KATA(form) will be able to “break” the existing the form by comparing … Continue reading “The most important fundamentals to learn from choosing holds”

Route Setting Simulated Experience / TIPS

ou’ve probably never experienced watching a route-setter work, much less what goes through a setter’s mind during the process of setting. How they think, the voices of in their head, telling him about the holds to choose or the moves to make.  Route setting is a series of choices. What moves to make, which holds to … Continue reading “Route Setting Simulated Experience / TIPS”