Route Setting Simulated Experience / TIPS

ou’ve probably never experienced watching a route-setter work, much less what goes through a setter’s mind during the process of setting. How they think, the voices of in their head, telling him about the holds to choose or the moves to make.  Route setting is a series of choices. What moves to make, which holds to … Continue reading “Route Setting Simulated Experience / TIPS”

Problem #3 / 3Q / Stemming

A steep wall problem using the ‘Theory’ series. It’s a tough challenge to make a problem that learn stemming with severe foot holds, very difficult to set a careful footwork on a 140 degree slope without cutting your feet, and it requires a lot of trial and error to get your customers to follow your … Continue reading “Problem #3 / 3Q / Stemming”

Problem #2 / 2Q / Lower form with Undercling

This is a basic, strong slope challenge using the ‘Theory’ series. Footwork with hold textures and training to keep good posture with bad feet. The elements are very colorful. Fit your body into this footwork and make it your own. When expressing the footwork you’ve learned on your body on the wall, you’ll need to … Continue reading “Problem #2 / 2Q / Lower form with Undercling”

The importance of imitating

Imitation of the problems is essential to improving your route setting. All experienced route setters will tell you that this is a must. However, the only concrete way to do this is to watch videos and imitate them, or try to replicate a problem that impressed you, and that’s about it. It’s better than just … Continue reading “The importance of imitating”

Problem #1 / 4Q / Straight your back

This is a basic problem on steep wall that using Theory series. Although big cross moves and subsequent turnaround are the heart of this exercise, the first, second and third moves are the most important to learn the technique. It’s easy to get distracted by the big moves, but the first three are the most … Continue reading “Problem #1 / 4Q / Straight your back”

Think Deeply 1

Climbing skills, route setting skills, words and common expressions used in discussions, quality of problems or lines, the effect of it, setting environment, training environment, organization – these are all part and parcel of route setting. These elements can’t be measured numerically, so I don’t have a scale at which it can be judged or … Continue reading “Think Deeply 1”