An overview of the route set exercises using Shojinholds.
If possible, you should repeat this process twice a day.
It is more important to repeat it over and over again in a single practice session than to do it every day, which will increase your mastery.
1. Route set
Don’t think too much, just put the holds according to your senses.
The order of applying the holds is…
- Hold you hold at the crux
- The next hold to go get from the crux
- Hold before the crux
- Hold after the crux
You don’t have to build up from the start to the goal, and if you can do about three moves at random, you’re done.
Route Setting Simulated Experience This article explains in detail with videos to help you get a feel for the route setting workflow in action.
2. Check with the Grip Guide
Make sure the direction of the hold you put on and how you hold it is the same as in the Grip Guide.
A little bit of difference is okay.
As for the way hands position, you should look closely at your right and left hand, as long as they are the same.
Change any hold that is different from the Grip Guide into a proper hold. Try to make the move as identical as possible to the move you made in the beginning.
Of course, there are also cases where holding in a direction not recommended or described in the Grip Guide is not a big problem. However, in this exercise, anything that is different from the Grip Guide will be changed rapidly.
The goal is not to choose the “right hold”, but only to make a “good move”. Think about the differences and contradictions that emerge, the good and bad decisions, and try to look for answers.
It’s natural that it won’t work. You can gradually get better at it through repetition.
Key point When you're making adjustments and corrections, it's important not to make judgments based on subjective and vague criteria sKey points When you're tweeking and checking, it's important not to make judgments based on subjective and vague criteria such as "this is interesting" or "that's easy". It's important to think in terms of "this is what it is, therefore this is what it will be". There's a lot to think about, why you chose that move, and why it will or won't work for the customer.uch as "this is interesting" or "that's easy". It's important to think in terms of "this is what it is, therefore this is what it will be. There's a lot to think about, why you chose that move, and why it will or won't work for the customer.
During regular sets, try deciding, “I’ll do this exercise at least twice,” etc., and keep going. You will see more and more changes in the setting.
Key point Selecting holds, putting on holds, making moves, choosing positions, and tweeking 、、、、 During this exercises, be sure to write down any problems or questions you notice in your notes. Think about the points you've written down, and if you don't get an answer, you may want to use Shojinholds' support.